Monday, December 29, 2008

more photos from kenya



Somebody's magic baby.






A tailor's storefront.





Cutting through the sugarcane fields to get to the river.





A cousin washing dishes.




The view from the backyard of grandmother's farm.





Our backyard at dusk.





A house I passed on the way to the hill behind it.




Girls playing handgames.




Girls playing handgames.





Church.




Church.




Webuye Falls.




Lunch.





The casket of a 9 month old baby.





The oldest woman in the village. She's 98.

Just look at the history on her face.

Saturday, December 27, 2008

travelin', travelin'

Tomorrow morning we're leaving for Uganda, to meet back up with my auntie Nanyama and her husband Jude, who is from there.

I'll miss this place. Very, very much.

you betta shut up cause I am the best

my cousin Caren is one of my very favourite people under the sun.

MY GRANDMA IS A G





My grandmother is 82 years old. She is called by her grandchildren, 'Koko', the respectful and affectionate title an older female relative.



She gets up with the sun early every morning to tend to her sukumowiki feilds, hens, cows, and banana trees. She's lived on that farm since the 1940's, and given birth to all of her 9 children within its walls.

She doesn't speak a word of English. Most of my memories of her were from when I was very young and she visited the US for a couple months. At that time, she was very quiet and noninteractive. I didn't know what to make of this Grandma as a kid, other than that I thought of her name as being ironically synonymous with the word cocoa.

When I arrived on her farm 2 weeks ago I was suprised to be welcomed by the jumping, singing, dancing, clapping, hugging, kissing version of Koko I had not previously known. Later, she said to me (through a translator) "I think you feel here as I felt when I was in the states." She was absolutely on point, we had traded places in being out of our elements.

We stay at my uncle Richard's house right next door, but every day I walk over to Koko's to visit with her. Especially in the morning, when I go and take tea at her table with her, and usually a couple guests. And every day she embraces me just as excitedly as she had on that first day. Amused at remarking to herself, "Nasimiyu Nasimiyu Nasimiyu..."

She wraps her arms around me and talks to me at length in Kiswahili. She knows I don't understand, but she just goes on and on. It's nice. Sometimes I just repeat what she says. Other times I just listen and imagine all the things she could be saying-

"Nasimiyu, you are my best granddaughter and you are far more special than your two siblings. Did you know that ever since you were small, you have had magical powers? You still do. I will teach you how to use them for good and not evil. Why do you think these bananas are so good?"

She's always filling my hands with the pint-sized but delicious bananas that she grows. She seems to worry constantly about how well I'm eating. Sometimes she won't let me leave until I've finished the pile of bananas she has set in front of me.



My Grandmother is a capital G.

apocalypso

Africa is awkward because it has skipped so many stages in technological and industrial development. It's jumped from point A to point F, except not quite all the way. It's like an adolescent who was just experienced a dramatic growth spurt and doesn't know how to use its new post-puberty body.

What has taken place between the British colonization and the information age has left Africa in a dangerous situation. Its cultural shift and its technological shift are out of sync.

The aesthetic here is ever-ironic. You'll see an old man walking alongside the highway in the hot sun, barefoot, wearing an "Edina High School Swim Team" track jacket. You'll see young guys working on farms, toting their tiny battery-powered radios, rapping along to 50 cent, who is an even bigger idol out here than Barack.

The infiltration of Western culture through African media manifests itself in many ways, but the most disturbing to me is the shift it has caused in agriculture. Over the past 5 years, farms that used to be self-sustaining, effective producers of organic vegetation and livestock, have been turned into sugarcane plantations. The difference is that now people farm to make a bigger profit off selling these exportable cash crops. Rather than make less money by selling their produce on the market, but be able to live off their land independently from the system, as they had been doing fruitfully for generations.

In my father's lifetime he's seen people's diets shift from being full of fruit and vegetable varieties to depending on the staples - rice, corn-flour-based ugali, and the like, for means of survival. Malnutrition is a new problem, and it's continuing to grow.

Within entire villages which had never even had landlines, people are now using cell phones. They buy them cheap, and bring them into town to have their batteries charged. It's amazing. With this money, they buy clothes with (bootleg) name brands that they recognize from the music videos they were able to view on a TV in town or searched up in a distant internet cafe. More and more folks are participating in the race to "modernization," and tradition and sustainable living habits are being left in the dust.

But for a country that is said to be 15 years behind the rest of the world in terms of development, Kenya doesn't resemble a place of the past. If anything, it looks and feels post-apocalyptic. It feels not like a country that is working toward "civilization", but rather one that is cleaning up after it.

It is not difficult to imagine Kenya's reality as a very real possibility for the future state of the world you and I know as Americans. Here, it is not difficult to see the immediate effects of overpopulation, pollution, media monopolization, disease, and political corruption. Here, you are surrounded by the evidence, day after day.

I don't sit here feeling as though I am in a 'developing country', so to speak. I feel like I am experiencing the consequence of an overdeveloped world. But I'm also seeing that, because of their perseverance and resourcefulness, these are the societies that will be best equipped to go on surviving in light of the energy crisis they will inherit from us.

So what's the solution here? Young activists I've talked to are still searching for the right kind of revolution to be prescribed to this weird new political illness.

I attended a Protestant worship service in Lugulu this Sunday, and was interested by the passage which the pastor chose from Corinthians:

"The weapons with which we fight are not of the flesh. The weapons with which we fight are not of this world."

He, of course, meant God. But I hear it differently. I hear it say that we can't make this world a better place if we can't elevate our consciousness to reach beyond our own immediate cost and benefit analyses. I hear it say that it doesn't matter who owns the guns if the guns are still in human hands. Shoot.

In the end of 'Dreams from My Father', Barack Obama wrote of a historian he met in Kenya named Dr. Rukia Odero who spoke to these issues,

"You know, sometimes I think the worst thing that colonialism did was cloud our view of the past. Without the white man, wo might be able to make better use of our history. We might look at some of our former practices and decide they are worth preserving. Others, we might grow out of. Unfortunately, the white man has made us very defensive. We end up clinging to all sorts of things that have outlived their usefulness. Polygamy. Collective land ownership. These things worked well in their time, but now they most often become tools for abuse. By men. By governments. And yet, if you say these things, you have been infected by Western ideology."

I think it's going to take cooperation between generations to heal Africa's cultural and developmental gaps.

Barack also reflects his own views (with very masculine syntax) on his experience in Kenya at the end of the book,

"Oh, Father, I cried. There was no shame in your confusion. Just as there had been no shame in the fathers before you. No shame in the fear, or in the hear of his fathers before him. There was only shame in the silence fear had produced. It was the silence that betrayed us. If it weren't for the silence, your grandfather might have told your father that he could never escape himself, or re-create himself alone. Your father might have taught those same lessons to you. And you, the son, might have taught your father that this new world that was beckoning all of you involved more than just railroads and indoor toilets and irrigation ditches and gramophones, lifeless instruments that could be absorbed in the old ways. You might have told him that these instruments carried with them a dangerous power, that they demanded a different way of seeing the world. That this power could be absorbed only alongside faith born out of a hardship, faith that wasn't new, that wasn't black or white or Christian or Muslim but that pulsed in the heart of the first African village and the first Kansas Homestead -- a faith in other people."

Friday, December 26, 2008

If you never take a shower again

you STILL wouldn't be able to imagine the infinite layers of grime I am emprisoned under.

This is the kind of place where 'bathing' only makes you cleaner if you've already surpassed a certain thresold of dirtiness. My definition of it is redefined. And I've become completely comfortable with it.

It's earned from hard work under the sun and long journeys down dusty roads and barefoot charades with small children.

And what was once body odor eventually just becomes a more subtle and all-encompassing aura that shrouds the rooms you walk into. It's like a funk. You can literally wear it. There is a weight atop your skin.

In fact, my father, brother and sister arrived here yesterday, and were suprised to find me well-adjusted, happy, and healthy. They, after traveling 36 hours to get here, checked into a hotel in Webuye to spend the night so they could shower. They invited me, but I actually turned down my first opportunity to utilize modern plumbing system, in solidarity with my fellow basin-bathers.

Au contraire. I rock the funk rather proudly.

christmas eve



I watched them slaughter a cow.

I didn't think I could do it, but I did.

I watched them - 5 or 6 men - bring it to the ground, restrain is struggling legs, bind them with rope.

Me and the other kids were gathered around, ready to explode in response to the tension in the air of something about to be murdered. We were too squeamish to get close, but too curious to stay away.

It took a long time, slow motion it felt like, for the man in the suspenders and blue baseball cap to identify a window of peace during which we he finally, and respectfully, slit the creature's throat.



In the following minutes the cow laid there, bleeding, with its head on a hinge. Still kicking and struggling to breathe. The sound was like someone slurping at the bottom of a glass of soda though there's nothing left but melting ice. The sound of an oozing, seeping airway.

Its powerful neck muscles glimmered red, exposed in the path of a lantern being held up by a young boy. He had an important job, that boy, directing the stark shadowy light for the carver to navigate the cow's endless map of sinews.

The lantern boy was working mostly against me as I moved around the scene, trying to interpret it through a lens. Forgetting myself through the camera, allowing myself to crouch much closer than I ever would have otherwise. Many times even bumping into folks who were standing there - in the pool table of possible camera angles. "I have to capture that. Now." I was zonin.



The whole thing should have traumatized me more than it actually did. Then again, I had the peace of mind of knowing that I don't normally, and didn't plan to, eat any of that shit.

The carver had finished removing the hide. He now worked to remove individual organs and isolate them on top of large banana leaves. There was a fire going a few feet away.

They were going to start eating. I found something else to do.



This, I decided, is my limit. It is the one fear I haven't bold faced since I've been here. And as long as it remains the only one, I think it's okay.

Tuesday, December 23, 2008

wait there's more

oh my gosh.



















its a christmas miracle!

I have found a computer in Bungoma that will allow me to give you a small sample of what I got goin on. But just barely. It's basically like trying to upload digital photos onto a mule, this thing.










A mosque in Webuye.





Cousins.





Lugulu Market.





That one is dedicated to Scand and the bald gent at Fette Sauv.





"JESUS IS ALIVE"





Market Day.





BIKE JONES: Mulachi Chapter!


----


These photos look fine on my camera's LCD, but very dark on this computer, even with the brightness at max. How are they showing up for you?

You might be able to view them better on my Flickr account, which is a total headache. And I hate it. Flickr is worse than peeing outside, I'm concluding.

the emailz

It's been hard to find time to do everything I've wanted to do using the internet. I'm always running on somebody else's schedule, so there are usually people waiting for me to finish. When I do make it here, and by the time a computer opens up, I'm paying to be online by the minute for a tortoise-slow dial up connection.

My only friend here who is not related to me in some way is the guy, Sam, who works here at the internet cafe. He patiently puts up with my threatening not to pay every time the damn thing freezes. He even invited me to his family's for Christmas, during which they offered to kill a Kuku (chicken) in my honor. I graciously declined. Our family will be throwing a "bash" on Christmas day, and will be slaughtering a whole host of livestock for the occasion.

I was given the tip that the best time to go to the internet cafe is early in the morning, before the rush. I was like, word. So I today I got up at 6am to make the journey to Webuye. I made it here, bought some "biscuits" from the market for breakfast, then sat on the stoop of the place until it opened.

I worked online for a good hour or more, before the electricity crashed for another hour. And nobody here acted suprised or disappointed. Now it's back up, and I've been in this place for a solid minute. I can't go anywhere because my people are coming to get me from here, under the stricktest of orders that I am not to "go and be adventurous".

The scene is just hilarious - I wish you could see it. There are 6 computers, each of them occupied. One person it pulling up Lil Wayne lyrics. Another 2 are on facebook. One is browsing through white women's myspace profiles. Someone is streaming American gospel music. The one next to me is researching get-rich-quick pyramid schemes and other such tycoonery.

And I shit you not, about a half an hour ago, a lone chicken wandered in and out of the shop.

Just outside, ancient looking barefoot children, grayed by the dust, are resting in the shade and chewing long peices of grass.

I'm google image searching "winter in minneapolis", because I've already forgotten it, and am trying to get a good sensory reminder of what I'm so lucky to be escaping right now.

And I'm starting to think my people have forgotten me here.

Monday, December 22, 2008

what's in a name

A lot, suggested my cousin Kitui the afternoon I arrived in Nairobi.

"Did you know that you were the first person to be named after my late mother?" he kept reiterating, each time adding more weight to the statement.

"You are the first person to take my mother's name." I try to accept this as a tangible accomplishment on my part, but it's hard to take credit for a thing like that. I am named Nasimiyu after my father's sister, who was a very important figure in his life. She passed away before I was born. I've only been able to gather scraps of history and fragments of mental photographs about this woman. What I've gathered is that she was a very bright woman, and a very brave woman, whose life was filled - and ended with - tragedy.

I am a part of a generation of cousins, now, who are named Nasimiyu more often than not. When I first arrived I was amazed at how many young girls came up to shake my hand and introduce themselves, "I am your namesake." It's funny -- I couldn't have foreseen a time in my life when I heard someone call out, "Nasimiyu!" and when I answered it turned out they were meaning to call a different one. And every time I address one of the other ones I have to try not to laugh a little. It's a peculiar feeling to go from having the most unique name in your area to the most common.

I have a very favourite uncle with the male version of the name, which is just Simiyu. He and I are very close. He used to live in the states, and I've grown up knowing him. The first night I got here, he told me that I should always introduce myself with pride. Not to accept people's inability to pronounce my name.

"You tell them, look!
NAH (darting his finger at an angle, like gesturing no)
SEE (two fingers pointing to his eyes)
ME (touching his thumb to his sternum)
YOU! (pointing to my face) "

I laughed so hard, he repeated it like 8 times.

The name literally translates to mean 'a girl (female pre-fix 'Na') born in the dry season'. It's about as poetic as the bracelet placed on a newborn in the hospital - who, where, and when. This is the meaning I've always known, until I asked my Dad about it earlier this year.

"Nasimiyu is like the wind," he said, raising his hands above his head and then coasting them down, and making the sound of it, "jhhhhh." He explained the significance of the dry season in terms of it's agricultural connotations. It's the time for harvesting, and the time for regenerating energy. It's the time when the air shifts and brings new weather, a new season of fertility.

People in our tribe, the Luhyas, have 3 names. The first is their "Christian Name". European monikers like Ken, David, Grace, Caroline, Julie, and Sam. Mine is actually second, and it is Lynn.

Traditionally, second is their Luhya name - like Nanyama, Pelita, Chemiati, Naliaka, Anandako, Nahomicha, and Sitati.

Third, we take our father's first name as our last. It's a custom that is unique to our smaller sub-tribe, Tachoni. No one else in Kenya uses this style of immediate patrilineage to create surnames. And there are very few other places in the world that work that way.

My grandfather is Tete Lukivisi.
My father is Murumba Tete.
I am Nasimiyu Murumba. And so on, and so on.

Until this year, when my brother broke the tradition by giving his firstborn the same last name as his own, Murumba. He is officially American.

People here choose whether they prefer to be called by their Christian name or their Luhya name. It seems to be equally split, 50/50. Christian names are considered to be "modern" and "civilized". It's wack.


When people in village see me, they think I am a white missionary. When I introduce myself, their faces freeze as if they're trying to gauge whether they're falling victim to some kind of prank. Their faces say, "Wait. Wait wait wait a minute. There is a Mzungu here from America. But her name is Nasimiyu, like ours. How the fuck could this have happened?"

And my face is saying, "Yeah, dude. That's what I'm here to figure out."

Sunday, December 21, 2008

mzuri sana

I have tried and tried my sunburnt little tail off, but it looks like I will not be able to upload a single photo for you while I'm here. This breaks my heart quite a bit, because I want to be sharing all my stories with you in real time. Or at the very least backing up my files. Trust, if there ever was a possibility, I have exhausted it.

I'll try again when we get to Kampala, Uganda, next week. It's a huuuge city, (the capitol I believe) and I'm sure there is at least one decent computer to be found there.

My Dad is coming here in a few days, along with both my siblings, in time for Christmas. Hey hey.

In the meantime, dude, I'm just chillin. I'm learnin Swahili - I have no choice. I'm exploring the vast hilly areas surrounding my grandmother's farm, with the help of my cousins, who pick for me the ripe guavas and berries that we pass. Helping out with chores. I'm taking pictures like a damn fool. Getting made fun of all the time. Little kids in the village pointing at me excitedly, "Mzungu! Mzungu!" (I'll kick you 20 shillings if you can find the translation for that one.) Giving away everything I brought. Getting 'new' things on market day.

And I'm still happy and I'm still healthy, but I'm straight counting the seconds until that luck runs out.

Tuesday, December 16, 2008

I am in Webuye, the second-nearest village to my grandmother's farm. It's about a 45 minute drive to get here, and it's the closest place with internet access. We already had to get a Matatu and come into town for other errands -- buying blankets and water, finding a place to charge our rechargeables.

This is the very first chance I've had to get online since New York. Even the layover in Dubai and the night in Nairobi had nothing for me.

I've been excited to find a computer and let you know - I'm here, I'm well, and I've got SO MANY things to tell you already! And pictures galore, pictures galore.

Unfortunately I can't even get into it yet - I'm already being rushed out of here by my Auntie. She's finished her errands and now she's got a Matatu full of kids waiting in the hot sun for me to finish.

So. I'll just let you know that it's really been amazing so far. I miss everybody. Honestly I try really hard every day not to think about Minnesota, but with everything I experience I'm always thinking of the people who would appreciate it. And I'm doing my best to share these things with you so that you can.

Grandma says hello.

Friday, December 12, 2008

what I am about to do

I am about to fly to Kenya for a month. I am about to go visit my grandparents, my aunts and uncles, and my millions of cousins, for the first time since 1996.

I'll be traveling with my aunt Nanyama, who grew up on the farm and has been living in the US for 20 years and is now a doctor. She's got two very small children, and
they'll both be coming as well. My cousin Serah will also be coming along with her daughter Diana, who is the same age that I was on my first trip to Kenya.

We'll cross the border toward the end of the month and spend some time in Uganda through New Year's, before heading back on January 8th.

In Kenya, we're going to be staying with our family on their farm in a very rural part of the country. It's an area with no plumbing, no electricity, and very few cars.

I don't know what kind of access I'll have to communicate back home - but whenever I can, I will try to send as many updates as possible because I feel like what I learn here can be bigger than myself. And I'm dedicated to sharing it with those of you who can't be here.

You all will be in my thoughts as I travel. This is the place where I will post any available photos, stories, and other updates.

For example: if I get malaria you will be the second to know. Hopefully the first will be some sort of medical professional.

SCORE!

I was forunate enough to randomly co-discover a DVD of Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy - the TV series that aired on BBC in 1981. Who knew. Shit is amazing. Amazing mazing. Upon watching it, I immediately scored 25 points to my overall quality of life.

Winnning!










The only thing keeping this series from being the BETTER version is its lack of Mos Def.
Still, the competition is stiff.

Wednesday, December 10, 2008

aw snap

I got a new camera. It's a Canon Powershot SD1100, if that means anything to you nerds. And I lovvve it.

Excite! Excite!

Photobucket

Photobucket

This is a good thing.

Sunday, December 7, 2008

Everybody's Baba

Simi: [When we go to Nana's farm in Kenya,] will there be other people with my name?

Baba: Yeah, that's where they are. Nasimiyu on the farm.

Simi: Like a lot of them?

Baba: Eh, like 4 or 5. It's just like Baba. Everybody's Baba. Same age group.



So. I've been thinking about making a children's book out of the ordeal, having it illustrated be Maurice Saundek, and calling it "Where the Nasimiyu's Are"

Daito Manabe

I think I love him, based mainly on his ability to keep a relatively straight face throughout the following VIDEO MINDWARP






Who is this man?

A graduate in math from the University of Tokyo. An artist, designer, composer and programmer. A master of myoelectric sensor use one the human body. "And Internationally acting Turntablist and Sound Artist using surround/oscillation/super low frequency technology and pursuing sensual peculiarity, commonality and interaction."

Hm. I dig the pursuit of sensual peculiarity. Why, yes sir. I do declare that you are the winning candidate for a brain lick.

More on www.diato.ws

crazy people love them some La Vie En Rose

Myself included.







[insert video of simi rocking out on accordion here]

Van Gogh Chucks

The illest! You, too can take a pair of white chucks and work it out.


I dig em the most in the second stage.




I wish I was as crafty as this lady. It's a damn good idea. Makes me want to bust out my old canvass kicks and go to town.

This and other really awesome projects can be found on craftster.com

Saturday, December 6, 2008

music is my aeroplane



Strangely enough, after a lifetime of flying, I've been developing an irrational fear of it as of late.

It might be coming back to me from playing too much Flight Simulator as a kid, and honing such little finesse over the joystick that I managed to learn of every aerodynamic disaster possible. I don't know. But every time I'm in a plane and it's taking off I literally convince myself that it's "stalling" (ascending without enough speed, and falling backwards) to the point where I imagine my family and friends watching the crash coverage on the news. And then I'm wondering - how long will it take them to find out that I just died? Did I leave any kind of emergency contact with the airline? Does anyone even know I'm out of town?

So the first thing I do when I panic is look at the flight attendant's expressions. You know, to see if they're freaking out too. And I've come to notice that when experiencing turbulence, flight attendants become far more cheerful-seeming. It's funny. Which is good when you're freakin out. Just watch how overly happy and carefree your flight attendant starts to act next time the plane starts bouncing all over the place.

But according to Drew Whitelegg's "Working the Skies", turbulence related injuries cause broken bones, crushed ankles, and even occasional fatalities. "'Fly for long enough', flight attendants reason, 'and you are going to get hurt.'"

So maybe this isn't what I should be looking into as I'm getting ready to fly for 23 hours to make it to Kenya next week. Stopping first at JFK, then a long overshoot to Dubai, before finally making it down to Nairobi. And I'm not looking forward to it. I just hope that Emirates Airlines is equipped with one of these fancy new unregulated WiFi enabled jets (porn!)

I will cheers you to the fear of flying, at whichever point over the Atlantic Ocean these drinking age limits wear off.



the secret to happiness

The trick to true life happiness is that you must find comfort in having an 'if-all-else-fails' plan B. That way, even if you fuck up everything else for yourself, you still have an alternative life path tucked away. Just in case. It's like a career-anxiety safety net, if you will.

WikiHow.com: "How to get a job as a character at Disneyworld"
WikiHow.com: "How to be a female rapper"
WikiHow.com: "How to be a stuntman"
WikiHow.com: "How to become a voiceover artist"
"WikiHow.com: "How to make a living off casinos"
Wikihow.com: "How to become an ordained minister online"

Goodbye, failure-phobia.

can we talk about this?

I just came across ModCloth.com. I immediately discovered that them fools are not playing around.

Way to break my heart, guys:







I finally gave in and sprang on this bad girl.


And I decided that, since I've been collecting all of the necessary ingredients over the past few weeks, I'm going to spend the rest of the evening crafting something along these lines.


Let's see how far I can get without a hot glue gun.